Race 57 Super Corsair
So what is my challenge for the month of April….
This is a Hanger9 .60 size Corsair ARF that will be turned into the Race 57 Super Corsair for a long time repeat customer…stand-off scale of course. Lets get started…
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The Race 57 will remain electric powered but this battery hatch will be redesigned and/or relocated.
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The Century Jet air retracts will be replaced with Lado electrics.
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Inside the fuse which will be gutted and reworked.
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Top side of the wing needs a little work.
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Canopy area will be reworked to use a P-51 style bubble canopy.
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Old battery hatch will not be reused.
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Another shot of the battery hatch.
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Inside the fuse with the hatch in place.
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Mechanical tailwheel retract that will be reused but without the arrestor hook.
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Spaghetti monster of air lines and sound system wiring that will all be removed.
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Sound system speaker in each wing will be removed.
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Sheeting around the retracts will be reworked once the new electrics are fitted.
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Digging out the air retracts.
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Opposite retract.
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Small air cylinder in the wing center section will have to go.
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One down...and out.
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Oops...looks like a section of the top main spar is missing. That is a definite rework.
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Closer shot of the missing main spar with the air tank removed.
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A few screws for good measure I suppose.
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Screws after using the extraction device.
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this is what happened when I leaned on the wing a bit too hard...cracked the center section right in half.
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Another random screw.
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Center section somewhat cleaned up.
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Time to make a rib pattern before I remove too much.
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All cleaned out and ready for rebuilding. Notice that the wing spar joiners are dry as they were never epoxied in place.
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Two new ribs and a top main spar cut to size.
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Ribs and spar glued in place.
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Rebuilt center section from the rear.
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Sheeting started to shore up the wing a bit.
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New 1/8" ply joiner box sides cut to replace the balsa ones supplied in the original ARF.
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Joiner box sides epoxied in place.
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1/8" balsa vertical grain webs added to the remaining bays.
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Top right cap strips are missing and the second rib out needs the top replaced.
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Rib pattern made from the left wing to fix the right side. Cap strips in place as well.
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Replacing the CA hinges on the ailerons with Robart hinge points requires extra blocking.
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Top center section sheeting completed. Solid as a rock now.
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Time to strip the fuse while I wait on the retracts to arrive.
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The inside front of the fuse was fiberglassed...most of this will go away.
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Ahh, the elusive tailwheel retract servo. This will be relocated to an area that is accessible.
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Front end cleaned up and the top stringer placed for some support.
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Rear fuselage stringers removed.
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Drawing out the first new former.
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First former in place.
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No guts no glory...time to start cutting the turtledeck away.
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New formers and top stringer in place.
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Left side stringers back in place. Right side will remain open until all of the pushrods are routed.
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New cockpit area sheeting.
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Time to work on this bugger.
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Old tailwheel support former being removed.
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Down to whats left of the original former.
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The main stringers were cut out of the tail section which weakened it considerably.
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Right main stringer extended with a kerf joint.
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Left main stringer was cut back two formers and replaced.
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Shaping the new tailwheel former.
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Tailwheel mounted to the new former.
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New former in place.
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3/8" basswood servo rails epoxied in place.
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Making up the servo tray.
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Servo tray fastened to rails with 6 mounting screws.
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Tailwheel retract pushrod and steering pull-pull setup.
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Shot of the tailwheel with the linkages in place.
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Cleaning off the old sheeting.
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New sheeting in place as well as the pushrod housing for the elevator.
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Left side sheeting in place.
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Another shot of the sheeted left side.
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Remainder of the fuse front sheeting removed and firewall cleaned up
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Spacers for the rear of the firewall.
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Spacers glued in place.
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4" diameter 1/8" ply plate added to backside of firewall.
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Adding some meat back into the firewall for the correct mounting hole locations.
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Because I didn't originally put this ARF together, I've added a few epoxied dowels through the stab mounting plate for peace of mind.
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Original rudder/tailwheel servo bay sheeted over and sanded smooth.
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6" diameter 1/8" ply plate added to front side of firewall and motor mounted.
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View of the backside of the reworked firewall.
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Front view of the firewall. Should get plenty of cooling air movement.
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Laying out a former for the battery tray.
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Battery tray former glued in place.
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Battery tray...the post will prevent the batteries from being pushed up against the motor mounting screws.
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Batt tray glued in place.
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Mock up of the 10S setup. A 6S will also fit on the tray.
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Right fuse side sanded and ready for sheeting.
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Right side sheeting in place.
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Bottom front sheeting in place.
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Time to close in the tailwheel a bit.
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Adding blocks for shaping.
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Rough shaped with a razor plane.
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Final sanded and ready for filler if needed.
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Final check fit of the fin/rudder before epoxying the fin in place.
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The rudder torque rod and tube will no longer be used so I will clean up the rudder leading edge a bit.
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1/4" removed from the leading edge and solid balsa glued back on.
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Robart hinge points will be used throughout the model.
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Marking the location of the rudder control horn.
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The ratty elevator leading edges will get the same 1/4" balsa replacement as the rudder.
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Tail surfaces all hinged and ready to go.
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The Lado electric retracts have arrived so its time to dig into the bottom side of the wing.
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The mechanical retract belcrank mounting plate will go away and that plywood main spar will have to be beefed back up to its former self.
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Digging down to the original gear mounts which are painted blue. The spray foam will go away as well.
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First wheel bay all cleaned up and ready to start over.
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Cutting out the built up radiator inlet.
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Rebuilding the leading edge at the radiator inlet. I will simulate these later with Monokote trim.
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These holes in the leading edge were needed to accept the plastic machine gun ports that came with the original bARF.
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No machine guns are needed for the Race 57. Some balsa dowel fills them in nicely.
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The original aileron servo mounting needs a little work.
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Reworked aileron servo mount.
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All necessary bottom sheeting removed and both wheel wells cleaned up.
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The original gear mounts don't have enough meat left on them to be of any use so they have to go and be replaced.
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Another shot of the gear mounts looking from the back.
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Digging out the old gear mounts.
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Belcrank mounting plate removed.
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Anything that I can pull up by hand is leaving.
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The original triangle stock will be used to reinforce the new gear mounting plate.
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New 3/8" aircraft ply mounting plate epoxied in place.
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Rebuilding the ribs around the gear mounts.
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Reinforcing the plywood spar that was previously chopped away.
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I have to assume the plywood joiner isn't glued inside the box since it wasn't in the center section. The outer ones aren't as easy to get at so I've drilled and epoxied 2 1/4" dowels through the joiner.
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Dowels sanded flush.
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Completed rework on the left side gear mount.
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1/16" balsa wheel well floor added.
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This rib needs touched up to accept sheeting.
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Good as new.
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Right side gear area gets the same treatment as the left. The Lado retract struts were too short for this model so I'll move back to the fuselage until longer struts arrive.
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A little rib reinforcing at the aft aileron servo hatch screws. These ribs tend to crack or break if you use too much pressure when installing the servo hatch.
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Starting the fuselage covering in the cockpit area.
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I find it easier to cover the edges of surfaces first so that you don't have to worry about overlapping the covering around curved areas.
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Elevator halves covered and ready for hinging.
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Corners and edges done first so that your cuts don't have to be exact every time.
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The fuselage will be covered in 3 pieces...one top center to bottom center on each side of the rear fuse and one to finish off the front.
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Left rear Monokote shrunk to fit.
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The front half is covered in one continuous piece with the seam on the bottom.
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Main fuse covering completed.
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Only one side of the tail feathers is covered before hinging so that I can inspect the glue joint on the hinges.
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Where possible I like to add an epoxy/milled fiberglass bump to the back side of the hinges for added security.
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Hard to see here but I put some grooves on the elevator joiner wire with a Dremel cut off wheel. These grooves will give the epoxy something to grab onto.
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Tail feathers hinged and covered.
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Fin/rudder tip trim.
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I've run some black Monokote through the Smart Stripe tool to make 1/8" stripe tape. Making your own from scrap covering saves money and the iron on covering will last longer.
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Laying out the starburst on the stabilizer.
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Making a pattern and cutting multiple trim pieces ahead of time makes life simpler. Just be sure to make mirror images of each piece where required.
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Stabilizer top.
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Stabilizer bottom.
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I used Autocad to trace all the markings from a downloaded picture of the Race 57 and then scaled them accordingly.
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Using the pattern to set a few benchmarks to place the markings.
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Here I've marked the edges of the 5 and 7 with a black Sharpie. When done placing the graphics, the Sharpie will wipe away with a little denatured alcohol.
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If you do a lot of iron on covering and don't have a mirror or piece of glass to work on, get one. It will make your life much simpler. I've ironed a piece of white Monokote down to the cleaned mirror and taped a pattern over it.
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After cutting out the graphic, remove the unwanted covering but don't disturb your graphic.
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Use masking tape to hold your graphics position and orientation.
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After peeling the graphic from the glass, tape it in position and run your iron right over the masking tape making sure to get the edges sealed good.
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Remove the masking tape and hit it with the iron again for good measure.
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More graphics cut out on the mirror...
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...and placed the same way as the 57
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Left side graphics and trim tape complete.
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The tail numbers were also drawn in Autocad and cut out of black Monokote.
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Motor and ESC mounted to the firewall.
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Battery wiring harness with a safety shunt and high voltage spark arrester.
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Outside view of the shunt/arrester.
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Elevator hook up.
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Rudder hook up.
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All pushrods hooked up to their respective servos.
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Fitting the P-51 style canopy.
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The fiberglass belly pan has some holes that need filled.
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Using an epoxy/microballoon mixture to fill the holes.
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The longer Lado struts have arrived so I can now build the wheel wells.
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The wheel well diameter works out to be a Sig Stix-it can. I've wrapped the bottom with paper and tape to build out flush with the lip on the can.
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Using 1/16"balsa for the wheel well walls.
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The bottom needs cut at an angle to fit properly in the wing.
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Vertical walls in place. I used the can while gluing in place to ensure it stayed as round as possible.
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A shot with the wheel retracted.
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Building out the strut tunnel.
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A little reinforcing for the fragile 1/16" balsa walls.
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Sanded to the wing contour and ready for sheeting.
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Left side sheeting completed. As I snapped this picture I realized I forgot to run the aileron servo extension wire...awesome. I was able to cut out the bottom of the strut tunnel and miraculously fish the wire through.
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Belly pan filler sanded smooth and ready for paint.
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Second wheel well completed...this time with the aileron servo extension wire in place the first time.
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Masking off the cowling.
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Masking off the canopy.
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Cowl painting completed.
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I used 1/8" vinyl trim tape for the cowl so I didn't have to run the iron over the fresh paint job.
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Embedding some 1/4" aircraft ply in the ailerons to mount the control horns to.
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Completed fuselage...turned out nice.
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Close up of the canopy area.
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Right top wing sunburst pattern.
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Bottom center section will be left uncovered until the fiberglass belly pan is mounted.
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Bottom left wing sunburst pattern.
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Top left wing striping tape and graphic completed.
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Completed top right wing.
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Bottom left wing graphics and servo hookup.
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Well that's disappointing....fiberglass belly pan doesn't mate up to the fuselage.
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Time to break out some more balsa and make a new belly pan.
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Rear belly pan former glued in place.
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Laying out the remaining formers using the fiberglass part as a guide.
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All formers and center stringer in place and ready for sheeting.
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First half of sheeting glued in place.
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Wing bolt hole cut and paper tube glued in place.
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Paper tube cut and sanded flush with the belly pan.
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Remaining half of sheeting glued in place.
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Now that's a much better fit.
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Lado retracts mounted for the last time.
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Finished product ready for delivery.
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Right side view.
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Left side view.
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Left rear quarter view.
One Response to “Race 57 Super Corsair”
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Whoa! What a beautiful conversion. Brent you are a true artist. The attention to graphic excellence is quite remarkable. Love the belly pan rebuild. The original just didn’t cut it. The wheel well rebuilds are super strong and better than new. The whole plane is a work of art and its .60 size airframe will really stand out in the air.